Welcome, Guest
We are looking to build a large (easy to access) library on everything from keeping chickens, organic gardening, aquaponics, to preserving all the foods we produce. So please consider writing articles for all our members to enjoy!

Post an article HERE!

TOPIC: Start building soil!

Start building soil! 19 Dec 2013 11:13 #99

  • CDfromKY
  • Wise Old Gardener
  • CDfromKY's Avatar
  • OFFLINE
  • Senior Member
  • Posts: 67
  • Good Job(s): 18
Some FYI: One must use caution when using horse or cow manure. Ask your source if/when the animals were wormed. Commercial manure is, of course, sterilized and therefore less nutrition for your soil as all the soil building organisms have been killed.
Mother Nature is my Teacher
Horses are my loves
And I can become awed
By a pair of Mourning Doves
The administrator has disabled public write access.

Start building soil! 19 Dec 2013 11:15 #100

  • HFI_Matt
  • ~ Humble Servant ~
  • HFI_Matt's Avatar
  • OFFLINE
  • ADMIN
  • Posts: 927
  • Good Job(s): 108
CDfromKY wrote:
Yep that's what I've got on my property. Good ol rich, well compacted Ky CLAY. Clay is very rich once you get the PH adjusted. KY clay is acid. I use leaves, gypsum for Ca,and time and my back yard is looking pretty good. Plan on penning the chickens up and planting grass, alfalfa, oats, and clover for their greens. I let them out on my unfenced lot which is full of clover and all kinds of greens that the snow didn't kill. Even have two blooming dandelions out there today!

QUESTION Do you think Soil Ph would be a good article to post? It's one of the most important elements of soil health.


The clay that we got is pretty rich in nutrients as well the only thing is it sticks to my shovel and I hate it!! I have found that punching and kicking the soil doesn't seem to work to get it to comply with me;)

On posting any articles I would say yes to soil pH:) Not everyone will have in mind for it at this point in their gardening but it is good to have on the site so that we have something to share with others around the planet!

So I would say go right ahead!
He who has a glass house should not cast stones...
The administrator has disabled public write access.

Start building soil! 19 Dec 2013 11:17 #101

  • HFI_Matt
  • ~ Humble Servant ~
  • HFI_Matt's Avatar
  • OFFLINE
  • ADMIN
  • Posts: 927
  • Good Job(s): 108
CDfromKY wrote:
Some FYI: One must use caution when using horse or cow manure. Ask your source if/when the animals were wormed. Commercial manure is, of course, sterilized and therefore less nutrition for your soil as all the soil building organisms have been killed.

I personally try and steer away from horse manures and cow manures. Chicken and rabbit poop are great and I have both chickens and a rabbit:)
He who has a glass house should not cast stones...
The administrator has disabled public write access.
Good Job(s) from: CDfromKY

Start building soil! 19 Dec 2013 13:12 #104

  • BrianV
  • BrianV's Avatar
  • OFFLINE
  • New Member
  • Posts: 15
  • Good Job(s): 10
I picked up a little 5hp shredder a couple years ago for $20, it had a bad engine but came w/another to use for parts, all I needed to buy was a head gasket and crankcase gasket and about 5-6 hours of time, it works fantastic for shredding up sticks and leaves every fall to use as the basis for my compost. If you're really serious about your compost and want to use leaves(and use them quicker) I would highly recommend getting a shredder.
dirt under your fingernail's is a sure sign of clean living
The administrator has disabled public write access.
Good Job(s) from: CDfromKY

Start building soil! 19 Dec 2013 13:17 #105

  • HFI_Matt
  • ~ Humble Servant ~
  • HFI_Matt's Avatar
  • OFFLINE
  • ADMIN
  • Posts: 927
  • Good Job(s): 108
BrianV wrote:
I picked up a little 5hp shredder a couple years ago for $20, it had a bad engine but came w/another to use for parts, all I needed to buy was a head gasket and crankcase gasket and about 5-6 hours of time, it works fantastic for shredding up sticks and leaves every fall to use as the basis for my compost. If you're really serious about your compost and want to use leaves(and use them quicker) I would highly recommend getting a shredder.

I totally agree! They break down very fast when they are shredded and look awesome as well as a nice mulch:)
He who has a glass house should not cast stones...
The administrator has disabled public write access.

Start building soil! 27 Dec 2013 17:40 #299

We have acidic clay soils here in MS as well. I also use finely chopped hardwood leaves as mulch in the raised beds and "row garden" I learned in forestry school that Beech trees have high levels of calcium in their leaves. The leaves fall within the dripline of the tree and because of their calcium level, prevent fire from burning too hot and too close to their thin bark. Which would kill the tree. As the instructor told us this, my thoughts went immediately to the garden. So far I have noticed that when I use a majority Beech leaf mulch, the pH changes faster. Thought I would share.
"When we try to pick out anything by itself, we find it hitched to everything else in the Universe." John Muir
The administrator has disabled public write access.
Good Job(s) from: HFI_Matt, CDfromKY

Start building soil! 27 Dec 2013 17:47 #300

....also, for those that don't own a shredder, I put the leaves into a drum, in small amounts, and use a weed-eater (string trimmer) to chop them. Works great!
"When we try to pick out anything by itself, we find it hitched to everything else in the Universe." John Muir
The administrator has disabled public write access.
Good Job(s) from: HFI_Matt, CDfromKY, BrianV

Start building soil! 27 Dec 2013 17:51 #302

  • HFI_Matt
  • ~ Humble Servant ~
  • HFI_Matt's Avatar
  • OFFLINE
  • ADMIN
  • Posts: 927
  • Good Job(s): 108
Joseph_Hosey wrote:
We have acidic clay soils here in MS as well. I also use finely chopped hardwood leaves as mulch in the raised beds and "row garden" I learned in forestry school that Beech trees have high levels of calcium in their leaves. The leaves fall within the dripline of the tree and because of their calcium level, prevent fire from burning too hot and too close to their thin bark. Which would kill the tree. As the instructor told us this, my thoughts went immediately to the garden. So far I have noticed that when I use a majority Beech leaf mulch, the pH changes faster. Thought I would share.

Funny, as I was reading I was thinking "garden" as well:) Thank you for sharing!
He who has a glass house should not cast stones...
The administrator has disabled public write access.

Start building soil! 27 Dec 2013 17:53 #303

  • HFI_Matt
  • ~ Humble Servant ~
  • HFI_Matt's Avatar
  • OFFLINE
  • ADMIN
  • Posts: 927
  • Good Job(s): 108
Joseph_Hosey wrote:
....also, for those that don't own a shredder, I put the leaves into a drum, in small amounts, and use a weed-eater (string trimmer) to chop them. Works great!

That is a good idea with the weedeater! You can get barrels fairly cheap (if not outright free) from car washes. They use barrels to hold soaps. When they are done using the soaps the barrels are fair game:)
He who has a glass house should not cast stones...
Last Edit: 27 Dec 2013 17:54 by HFI_Matt.
The administrator has disabled public write access.
  • Page:
  • 1
  • 2

Moderators: MKK-FARMS